DRIED MOUSSERON MUSHROOMS

Mousseron (Marasmius oreades), also known as Fairy ring mushrooms or Scotch Bonnett Mousseron mushrooms, are delicious, small wild mushrooms more universally used in France and Italy than in England - although it is well known and frequently used both in a fresh and a dry state in England. It's commonly found growing in "fairy rings" marked by dying grass in the center, on grassy lawns or in parks and cemeteries . Numerous conjectures were once put forth as to the origin of these rings when their fairy connection was no longer believed in. They were attributed to the out breathing of a lively subterranean vapour, to the burrowing of moles, even to the effects of lightning. The rings formed by Marasmius oreades increase in diameter with time as the fungus seeks new food. A number of studies measuring distance and growth rate have estimated that some rings of the M. oreades are probably centuries old and hundreds of feet across. The French call it faux mousseron, or "mushroom scythe", no doubt due to its nuisance potential for lawn destruction; eventually the grass inside the ring recovers, but along the borders the damage continues. One of the first mushrooms to appear in spring, the Mousseron mushroom tastes just as good as it looks.

This delicious mushroom can actually be found in the U.S. year-round except during the coldest months in the appropriate areas of the Northwest. The fairy ring mushroom fruits abundantly during the warm months in the eastern United States, and all year in the west; they are most easily attained in California in late spring and summer after rain or periodic watering. European season is Spring and Autumn. When it is available, it is usually under the French word "mousseron", which is a partial name from the following choices: mousseron d'automne, faux mousseron, mousseron de Dieppe, petit mousseron, mousseron des prés, and so on. Richly colored, creamy off-white to beige, light tan to golden brown, Mousseron caps are little more than 1 inch in diameter, with lacy, widely separated buff-colored deep gills and long, delicate stems that appear very fragile in comparison to the cap size; in reality the seeming fraility is misleading, they are actually tough but edible, though not tasty. While young, its cap is raised, the centers conical or dome shaped, getting bigger with age, and has relatively thick flesh in the center of the cap. They throw off many white spores. Beware of similar looking species that are toxic.

From a culinary point of view, this is a versatile mushroom. Mousseron mushrooms have a fine, full-bodied almost aniseed flavor with a soft and chewy, fleshy texture like Boletes. There's an almost magical earthy scent that goes well with meat and fish dishes, omelettes, stuffings, or mixed mushroom dishes. The aroma and distinctive taste of the delicious Mousseron is reminiscent of Porcini mushrooms, almost nutty, toasty, with a slightly bitter almond edge. Although it is delightful fresh, this mushroom is often dried before use. The caps are thin and will dry quickly - try stringing them on a thread to hang in a warm place for later use and it will retain its flavour remarkably well this way. Or, simply dry on a baking sheet in an oven warmed by a pilot light, with the door left a bit ajar; by morning, the mushrooms will likely be dry and crisp. Dried Mousserons do reconstitute to their original texture, appearance and taste, quite nicely, and provide wonderful flavor; this mushroom is a delicious addition to your favorite soups, ragouts, or stews, and it confers a definite, somewhat sweet taste, a quality which also enhances some cookies. Tasty and fragrant, it is excellent sautéed in butter with onions or garlic for a wonderful addition to pasta, bean or rice dishes. This is the mushroom traditionally added to the British Isles beefsteak and kidney pies, and is very much sought after by the French. It's relatively unknown to American buyers and is highly priced.

To prepare for use, a light dusting with a brush would be advised over washing them as that will compromise their flavor. Clean the tops quickly under water with your fingers if necessary. Remove the fibrous stems with scissors and discard. Though literally edible, the stems are too rough and bitter to eat with any enjoyment. Luckily, insects seldom attack these mushrooms. The caps are quite firm and tolerate long cooking. When shorter cooking times are called for, simmer them beforehand for 15 minutes in water with butter and lemon juice. It is not necessary to soak them, prior to adding to soups or stews, due to its amazing ability to rapidly take up water; just add when and where needed.

 

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